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24. Februar 2005

68caliber.com Eye of the Beholder: Dying your hopper shells

Filed under: Allgemein — Florian @ 09:39

Eine ausführliche Anleitung zum färben eines Hopper ist bei 68caliber.com online. Ihr könnt Euch den Artikel aber auch bei uns durchlesen:

The author and 68Caliber.com are not responsible for any problems or unexpected results by using these directions.  This article was written as a guideline for dyeing Halo shells; however this technique also works for Evlutions and Revolution hoppers.  For those who are young and under 18, parental guidance is recommended.

As with anything in our social culture, style has always been a consideration during design and purchase of a product.  Whether if a player prefers a Tippmann scenario A5, an intricately milled Intimidator, or a sculpted DM5, marker choice has always been influenced by budget, performance, handling, and last but not least, aesthetics.  Compared to markers, hopper shape and color selection is more limited.

With the recent additions of new hopper shell colors and finishes, the choices for buyers are broadening.  However, for those who prefer something a little different or something not currently available, dyeing hopper shells is a viable option for custom coloring.

Back to the Basics

yeing hopper shells is not unlike cooking, but with any great recipe, the proper ingredients and time are required.  Not all of the following tools are necessarily required, but are definitely recommended:

  • A disposable stock pot, large enough to fit your shells with extra room.
  • 1-2 RIT liquid dye bottles, or 2-4 RIT power dye boxes
  • A disposable stirring utensil
  • 3 feet of 14 gauge wire, or a wire coat hanger
  • A cooking thermometer, capable of measuring higher than 200 degrees F
  • Plastic painting drop sheets
  • String

If you want to avoid a scolding from your parents or significant other, it is advised to find all these items, expecting to not utilize them in the future for any other purpose.  Based on the results of my hopper coloring, two times the dye will be needed.  Metal wiring will aid in aligning the shells and at the same time, keep them separated to avoid fusing the two halves together while they are heated up.  At high temperatures, it is possible the hopper shells may warp.  A thermometer will enable constant dye solution temperature monitoring. Plastic drop sheets will protect everything surrounding your mini project.

Patience is Key

The first step in preparation is to cut 5 x 8 inch straight wires, then fashion each wire in a shape similar to this:
___________/____________

Insert one wire through a Halo shell screw hole from the inside so that the hump on the wire is positioned on the inner side of the shell.  Repeat this for the other Halo shell screw holes, resulting in wires being inserted in most, if not all, of the holes.  Take the other shell half and insert the wires through the corresponding screw holes.  The Halo shells should mirror each other and be loosely pressed towards each other, but be separated by the hump of the wires. While the shells are positioned in this manner, bend the ends of one wire to secure the shells.

To avoid melting or warping your Halo shells during the dye process, it is advised that the shells are kept away from the pot sides and bottom, as these are more heat conducive and hotter than the dye solution.  To achieve this, the shells should be suspended in the pot by a string, or whatever may suit your kitchen environment.  String attached to one of the wire humps and an object above the stove top is effective.

Use the plastic drop sheets to cover furniture, and even parts of the stove that will not be heated (i.e. do NOT cover stove elements you will be using, duh!).  Not yielding to this warning may result in permanently dyeing your stove and surroundings.

Fill the pot with water to an appropriate level where the parts of the shells that are to be dyed, will be submerged and have extra room as to not touch the bottom of the pot.  Without the shells in the pot, heat the water and stabilize the water temperature at 175 degrees F. Empty at least two times the dye recommended into the pot of water, and stir the dye solution well.  For my 8 quart pot, I emptied a full bottle of liquid black RIT dye.  Now you are finally ready. Submerge the parts of the shells that are to be dyed into the dye
solution, while keeping an eye on the solution temperature.  Again, do no allow the shells to touch the sides, especially the bottom of the pot, by suspending the shells using the string.  Every so often, check on the solution level.  If the solution level drops, feel free to add water.  For a deeper and richer color, leave the shells in the solution longer or increase the intensity and concentration of the dye solution.  As a guideline, my attempt at a black coloring on stock yellow shells turned out smoke for 4 hrs of dyeing.

When the shells are the proper color (the shells should appear fairly darker and deeper in color than your target shade), remove then from the dye solution and let them cool for a few minutes.  Do not immediately rinse them under cold water, as the sudden change in
temperature may cause the shells to crack.  After having let them cool down, rinse them under water and your newly colored shells should be ready for the field.

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